Runway

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Vera Wang

New York Fall 2090
Friday, February 20, 2009

(NEW YORK) Vera Wang downsized this season, showing her Fall 2009 collection in her new SoHo store instead of Bryant Park, but her designs showed no signs of the change. Predominately black, texture provided interest in the form of wrinkled cotton, strips of bias-cut charmeuse and chiffon pieced together, folds of tissue organza, sequined colorblocks, and-on the tougher side-techno gabardine and scuba. Citing “Peggy Guggenheim and her extraordinary life in Venice” as the inspiration behind the collection, sculpted skirts, oversized suits, and t-shirt dresses (brought back tight to the body with scuba corsets) showed Wang at her elegant, edgy best.

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Moschino

Milan Fall 2009
Monday, March 02, 2009

(MILAN) Rossella Jardini always indulges her flights of fancy, and this season, quirky little touches threatened to overwhelm the classic silhouettes. But this is Moschino, after all, and that’s how it should be. Navy jackets were studded with rosettes or topped with twisted silk collars and cuffs, while a red sheath was gussied-up with cascading ruffles from hip to knee. These exaggerated curves, which have emerged as one of Milan’s most cohesive trends, exemplified this brand’s obsession with playfulness. It worked beautifully in a navy silk frock with a layer of rose petals trapped between the base and a chiffon overlay.

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VPL by Victoria Bartlett

New York Fall 2009
Sunday, February 15, 2009

(NEW YORK) Victoria Bartlett stuck to her roots for her Fall 2009 collection, shown on Saturday at Focus Studios. Skinny pants, knits that simultaneously clung and draped, looped knit scarves, and–of course–layers, where undergarments are just as important as the outer ones. VPL’s play-on-words (that’s Visible Panty Lines, chicettes) may no longer be new, but her line of sporty, futuristic bras and undergarments sell alongside the rest of her apparel, and that will remain the case with her latest collection. She had specific inspirations–“There are a lot of references to the Picasso women, the surrealist times, how they kind of reconfigured the lines of where the body went,” Bartlett said–but aside from voluminous, sculptural suits, body-print bodysuits, and human hair (yes, human hair) trim, it was the same VPL.

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Milly by Michelle Smith

New York Fall 2009
Thursday, February 19, 2009

(NEW YORK) There’s a reason that Ken Downing and Linda Fargo love Milly–the brand delivers season after season, offering its devoted customer more of what she deserves. This season, easy little swing coats and metallic minis emerged as focal points, with a rich caramel hue dominating the palette. “I was inspired by Manhattan’s gallery girls,” explained designer Michelle Smith. The look? Rich as hell. The price point? Very welcome. This contemporary designer does updated classics better than her contemporaries. With clothes this solid, accessories must be next.

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Burberry Prorsum

Milan Fall 2009
Monday, March 02, 2009

(MILAN) Those seeking relief from the narrowest possible silhouettes currently assaulting Fall runways found plenty to love at Burberry, where designer Christopher Bailey looked to those Bloomsbury brainiacs for throw-on coats, cozy cardigans and slouchy silk dresses. In true Burberry fashion, outerwear was key, with trenches and shearlings warring for equal runway time. Sturdy, heeled boots and fur scarves kept it modern. Overall, though, Bailey’s retro take on dressing is more modern than some of his contemporaries, especially when comparing a ’30s vintage with the ’80s.

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